Rupununi Savannah: Exploring Guyana's Untamed Beauty
Why Guyana?
Join me on a down to earth, spontaneous journey to Guyana. Discover how a last minute decision, a nearly expired flight credit and a dash of luck led me to this hidden gem. Explore the vast Amazon rainforest and unravel the mysteries of a country that stands apart. Let's dive into the incredible wonders that await in the land of the giants.
As I sat there with my flight credit, realizing its expiration date was looming, I went into panic mode. Desperate to use it, I stumbled upon a reasonably priced flight to Guyana. Without any research or hesitation, I booked it on the spot, relieved to have used my credit just in time.
Now, it was time for my favorite part: researching Guyana. As I delved deeper, a mix of excitement, curiosity and worry consumed me. This wasn't your typical Caribbean destination. Guyana boasted vast stretches of the Amazon rainforest and a unique culture intertwined with its Caribbean neighbors.
Join me as I uncover the hidden treasures of Guyana, where the natural wonders of the Amazon come to life. From the breathtaking biodiversity to the warm hospitality of its people, this off-the-beaten-path adventure promises to be an unforgettable experience. Get ready to embrace the unexpected and embark on an enchanting journey into the heart of the giants.
The Anxiety!
Initially, I had planned to visit Guyana with a companion, but she canceled at the last minute. Suddenly, the thought of going solo made me nervous. While I felt comfortable traveling solo to the Caribbean, which is home to me, venturing into the interior of Guyana alone was a whole different ballgame. South America, the Amazon rainforest and the Rupununi Savannah—these wild experiences seemed daunting for a solo traveler like me. Who in their right mind would do that, right? But guess what? I mustered up the courage, embraced the unknown and had the time of my life. Guyana completely changed me. I had countless unforgettable firsts and now, it feels like my second home. Looking back, it's funny to think about how hesitant I was before my first visit because I ended up returning to Guyana three times in a single year.
Midnight Flight to Georgetown: Exploring Guyana's Capital
After a long flight from JFK, I finally landed in Guyana, eager to embark on my adventure. A driver from Cara Lodge, the hotel where I would be staying for the night, greeted me at the airport. Although the airport was about an hour away from Georgetown, the journey felt shorter as we chatted along the way.
Arriving at Cara Lodge, I was immediately captivated by its charming courtyard. The friendly staff made me feel right at home as I checked into my cozy, albeit compact room.
After settling in, I had a scheduled Georgetown tour with Touring Guyana. The tour guide, a delightful lady, arrived promptly, ready to show me around. Our first stop was the iconic Kingston seawall. It was built to protect the city from the Atlantic Ocean. This place gets very lively at night, buzzing with energy.
The number one food on my list to try in Guyana was their national dish - pepperpot. My excitement peaked when we stumbled upon an Amerindian lady selling it by the sea wall. And let me tell you, it was absolutely incredible. The flavors were so rich and satisfying, making it a truly unforgettable culinary experience.
We snapped some photos near the "I Love Guyana" sign, capturing the essence of my journey. Our tour continued with visits to Stabroek Market, a bustling hub of activity, and St. George's Cathedral, a wooden church that held the title of the world's tallest. At Bourda Market, I couldn't resist savoring the sweet water from a fresh coconut sold by a friendly street vendor. To top it off, I indulged in a local Guyanese passion fruit wine, sipping it leisurely in the tranquil courtyard of Cara Lodge.
As fate would have it, I made two new local friends during the tour and we decided to embrace the vibrant nightlife of Georgetown. We headed to the lively seawalls, where laughter and music filled the air and then ventured to a nearby local bar, immersing ourselves in the lively atmosphere and savoring the authentic Guyanese experience.
With a content heart and wonderful memories from my first day, I bid farewell to my newfound friends and headed back to my room. Excitement filled the air as I prepared for the thrilling adventures that awaited me on day two of my Guyana exploration. Little did I know that this enchanting country would continue to captivate me with its beauty and warmth throughout my journey.
Island Hopping Adventure on Essequibo River
I woke up excited for an action packed day of exploration. I hopped on a bus and headed to the Essequibo River, where our speedboat awaited, ready to take us on a thrilling tour of the river's incredible islands.
Our first stop was Fort Island, a place steeped in history and dotted with fascinating Dutch ruins.
Back on the boat, we cruised to another charming little island, where we were in for a treat—a playful monkey encounter! We shared Guyanese fruits creating unforgettable memories in the company of this adorable creature. It was a moment of pure joy!
The highlight of the day was yet to come—Baracara Falls, my absolute favorite! I couldn't help but be in awe of nature's power and took countless photos to preserve the memory forever.
Our adventure continued to Sloth Island, where we refueled with tasty lunch amidst the tranquil jungle. Although we didn't spot any sloths on this occasion, the immersive experience of walking through the dense foliage made me appreciate Guyana's incredible biodiversity even more.
Next on our agenda was Bartica, a charming town where we strolled along a lively boardwalk. The friendly locals and stunning views made this stop a true gem in our journey.
As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Georgetown and I was really excited crossing the Demerara Floating Bridge, as we made our way back to the city.
Returning to my cozy hotel in Georgetown, I treated myself to a mouthwatering Guyanese chicken curry, savoring the explosion of flavors. With excitement inside me, I drifted off to sleep, eagerly anticipating the next day—the day I would witness the breathtaking Kaieteur Falls, the world's largest single drop waterfall.
A Setback and Unexpected Connections: A Twist in My Guyana Adventure
As the time approached for our flight from Georgetown to Kaieteur Falls, I couldn't contain my excitement. However, a wave of disappointment washed over me when I learned that the flight required a minimum of 12 passengers, and with only 8 of us, it was canceled. My heart sank, for visiting Kaieteur Falls had been at the very top of my Guyana bucket list.
Regrettably, that was the only day I had planned for Kaieteur Falls, as the next morning, an early journey awaited me to Lethem and the captivating Rupununi Savannah. The possibilities were endless in this wild expanse—jaguar spotting, horseback riding, exploring the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, cruising the Rupununi River, encountering giant otters and anteaters and even catching glimpses of black caimans. The disappointment of missing out on Kaieteur Falls was only surpassed by my eagerness to embrace the adventures that awaited me in the Rupununi.
In light of the change in plans, I relocated to the Grand Coastal Hotel, primarily enticed by the allure of its inviting pool. With a free day suddenly unfolding before me, I decided to make the most of it by indulging in some poolside relaxation. Little did I know that this impromptu decision would lead to an unexpected encounter.
As I lounged by the pool, a delightful Guyanese lady struck up a conversation. She mentioned that she currently resided in France but was visiting her family in Guyana. In a spontaneous and heartwarming gesture, she invited me to join her and her family for dinner in a nearby town. Intrigued by the prospect of immersing myself in the local culture, I eagerly accepted her invitation.
The evening unfolded into an unforgettable experience, as I found myself embraced by the warmth and hospitality of the Guyanese people. The dinner was a delightful celebration of food, laughter and shared stories, which provided a glimpse into their vibrant way of life. It was a reminder that the true essence of a destination lies in its people and their genuine connections.
Returning to my hotel that night, I felt a renewed sense of anticipation for the adventures that awaited me in the Amazon the following day. Although the disappointment of missing Kaieteur Falls still lingered, the fortunate encounter with newfound friends had shown me the beauty of embracing unexpected twists and the joy that can be found in connecting with local communities.
With a heart full of gratitude and curiosity, I drifted off to sleep, eager to set foot in the inspiring Amazon rainforest, ready to uncover its hidden wonders and create lasting memories.
A Journey through the Interior: Exploring the Wilderness of Guyana
With the sun barely peeking over the horizon, I rose at 5 am and hailed a taxi to the nearby airport in Georgetown. From there, I embarked on a thrilling one hour flight with Trans Guyana to Lethem, where the vastness of the Amazon rainforest unfolded before my eyes. The aerial views from the small plane were simply breathtaking, as far as the eye could see—endless stretches of lush greenery.
As we touched down in Lethem, it was as if I had entered a whole new world. Dirt roads and sprawling savannah replaced the bustling streets of Georgetown. Waiting for me was a driver who would accompany me on my journey. My plan was to stay at three different lodges scattered throughout the savannah, each bringing its unique charm and experiences. But before we embarked on our rainforest adventure, we made a quick dash to Brazil. Lethem, being a border town, allowed for a seamless entry into Brazil without needing a passport. Crossing the Takutu River, I found myself in Brazil for a fleeting moment before making a U-turn back towards the rainforest.
Our first stop was the furthest point, strategically planning to work our way back towards Lethem each day, bringing me closer to catching my return flight to Georgetown. As we drove through the savannah, passing the majestic Pakaraima Mountains, we encountered magnificent birds and graceful horses along the road. Finally, we arrived at the awe-inspiring Iwokrama Forest, a sanctuary within the Amazon rainforest. It was here that we ventured into the heart of the jungle to reach Atta Rainforest Lodge, nestled harmoniously amidst its verdant surroundings.
Our jungle journey continued as we embarked on a thrilling ascent of 150 steps to reach the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. Walking among the treetops, I marveled at the incredible sights and sounds of the Amazon.
After immersing myself in this incredible experience, we proceeded to our first accommodation, Rock View Lodge. Despite the heavy rain, the jungle exuded a tranquil beauty that captivated my senses. To my delight, there was a playful capuchin monkey residing on the lodge's property, and I instantly formed a bond with this mischievous creature. The evening was spent savoring a delicious dinner and embracing the serene ambiance of the night, marveling at the star-studded sky above.
The following morning, I resumed my journey, heading to Caiman House Eco Lodge, located in the heart of the indigenous Amerindian village called Yupukari, in the central Rupununi savannah of Guyana. Taking the time to explore the village, I caught glimpses of its library, school and the unique local houses.
With a guide from the Macushi tribe by my side, we ventured to the Rupununi River in search of giant otters—a truly unforgettable experience. Even thought we didn't see the otters, birdwatching and spotting a majestic black caiman were additional highlights of the excursion.
We ventured into a gallery forest, where I marveled at the Victoria Amazonica lilies, the world's largest water lilies, adding to the sense of wonder.
As night fell, we returned to the lodge, a thrilling journey through the pitch black savannah, a blend of fear and excitement.
Dinner was a delight, shared with fellow travelers from Georgetown, swapping stories and creating memories. Satiated by the night's experiences, I retired to my room, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited me.
Rising early once again, we embarked on the final leg of our savannah expedition, reaching Waikin Ranch, my third and last lodge. Located a mere 30 minutes from Lethem, it offered the convenience of a short journey to the airport the following day.
Waikin Ranch proved to be my favorite stay out of the three, boasting a touch of luxury and even Wi-Fi connectivity. As I settled into my cabin, I couldn't help but admire its beauty, perfectly blending with the surrounding nature. The culinary delights served at the ranch surpassed my expectations, tantalizing my taste buds with every dish.
Eager to explore, I set out to wander the area around the ranch. The serenity of a picturesque pond, teeming with fish and adorned with water lilies, beckoned me to its tranquil shores.
However, the highlight of my stay at Waikin Ranch was an enchanting sunset horseback ride through the vast savannah. The golden hues of the setting sun created a truly magical experience.
We returned to the ranch, where a night walk awaited us—a chance to encounter the nocturnal creatures that call the savannah home. Amidst the darkness, we were fortunate to spot a capybara, the largest living rodent, adding a touch of excitement to the adventure.
The local guides at Waikin Ranch generously shared their traditional fishing techniques, teaching me how to catch fish using a bow and arrow—an experience both unique and humbling.
With a sense of accomplishment I retired to bed, ready to rise early for a sunrise horseback ride through the savannah. My hopes were high, as Waikin Ranch is renowned for its sightings of the elusive giant anteater. Though luck was not on my side this time, I understood that nature cannot be confined to our expectations, and the true wonder lies in observing animals in their natural habitat.
Returning to the ranch, I indulged in a hearty breakfast before bidding farewell to the savannah. It was time to catch my flight back to Georgetown, but the memories of the interior of Guyana would forever remain etched in my heart. Three extraordinary days spent immersed in the wilderness had left an indelible mark on my soul.
As I soared through the skies, leaving behind the vast rainforests and expansive savannahs, I reflected on the incredible journey I had undertaken. From the towering canopies of the Amazon to the vibrant indigenous villages and the breathtaking encounters with wildlife, every moment had been a testament to the beauty and richness of Guyana's interior. I felt a profound gratitude for the opportunity to experience nature's wonders firsthand, reminding me of the importance of preserving and cherishing our planet's diverse ecosystems.
With a sense of fulfillment, I landed in Georgetown. Guyana had stolen a piece of my heart and I knew that its untamed landscapes would forever beckon me to return and uncover even more of its hidden treasures.
Reflecting on Unforgettable Adventures: A Journey of Discovery and Connection in Guyana
Upon landing at Eugene International Airport in Georgetown, I made my way to a bustling Chinese Guyanese restaurant to savor the fusion of flavors in their cuisine. It was a delightful way to satisfy my cravings and reflect on the incredible journey I had just undertaken. Afterward, I headed to the main airport, Cheddi Jagan International Airport, to catch my flight back to JFK, a nearly six hour journey.
As I sat on the plane, my thoughts wandered back to the experiences I had in Guyana. It was a country that had offered me countless firsts, creating a deep and special connection within me. The combination of relaxation, fun and adventure was seamlessly woven into the fabric of Guyana's charm. The memories from my first visit were so profound that I knew I would return for more.
Recalling the nights spent in the rainforest and savannah, I chuckled at the unfamiliar sounds that had echoed through the wilderness. I vividly remembered an animal scurrying across the roof of my cabin, prompting my imagination to run wild. These moments reminded me of the untamed nature that surrounded me and added an extra touch of excitement to my experience.
I couldn't help but feel immense gratitude for the adventure I had undertaken. Guyana had pushed me beyond my limits, both physically and mentally, and the rewards were immeasurable. From the captivating rainforests to the vibrant indigenous villages, every step of the journey had left an everlasting impression on my soul.
As the plane soared through the skies, carrying me away from the enchanting landscapes, I knew that my connection with Guyana was far from over. Its untapped beauty beckoned me to return and discover even more of its hidden treasures. This adventure had touched my heart, and I vowed to spread the word about Guyana's wonders, urging others not to overlook this extraordinary destination.
Final Thoughts
Guyana, with its pristine rainforests and diverse wildlife, offers an adventure like no other. Beyond the coast, where the majority of the population resides, lies an untouched paradise waiting to be explored. It is a destination that deserves greater recognition and appreciation. With 87% of its land covered in pristine rainforest, Guyana is a haven for nature enthusiasts and wildlife lovers.
During my time in the Rupununi region, I had the privilege of delving deep into the heart of the Amazon rainforest. Walking above the trees on the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway was a breathtaking experience that allowed me to appreciate the vastness and beauty of the jungle. Sleeping in a rainforest lodge, with monkeys as my playful companions, added a touch of magic to my stay.
Visiting an indigenous village in the Rupununi Savannah was a cultural immersion like no other. I had the opportunity to dine with the Macushi tribe, learn about their traditions, and witness their way of life. A boat ride down the Rupununi River, guided by a local Macushi, brought me face to face with a majestic black caiman and the mesmerizing Victoria Amazonica, the world's largest water lily.
My adventure didn't stop there. I continued to a ranch in the savannah, where I witnessed awe-inspiring sunsets during exhilarating horseback rides. Walking the fine line between a deck surrounded by caimans and anacondas on one side and a herd of cows on the other was an experience that tested my nerves but left me with a sense of triumph.
Exploring the savannah at night, searching for nocturnal wildlife creatures, allowed me to appreciate the natural wonders of the region even further. Learning the indigenous fishing technique using a bow and arrow, spotting the world's largest rodent, the Capybara, and encountering a baby anaconda were memories that will forever be etched in my mind.
Guyana's allure extends far beyond its capital, Georgetown. It is a country of vast wilderness, teeming with natural wonders and opportunities for adventure. Its pristine rainforests and unique ecosystems offer a glimpse into a world that is rapidly disappearing elsewhere.
As I concluded my thoughts on the flight back to JFK, I couldn't help but feel a deep sense of satisfaction and a burning desire to return to Guyana. The allure of its untouched landscapes and the warmth of its people had captured my heart. I realized that Guyana was a hidden gem, waiting to be discovered and appreciated by more travelers.
I made a promise to myself that I would continue to share my experiences and encourage others not to overlook the wonders of Guyana. It is a destination that offers an authentic, off-the-beaten-path adventure, where nature reigns supreme and cultural immersion is a way of life.
So, don't sleep on Guyana, for it has so much to offer. Let it be known as a destination that beckons the intrepid traveler, ready to embrace the untamed beauty of its rainforests, savannahs and indigenous cultures. I know that Guyana will see me again, as my journey there is far from complete.
Please check out my Instagram story highlights for a complete documentation of my journey. Immerse yourself in the sounds of the jungle, witness the incredible wildlife encounters and relive all the unforgettable experiences. You'll also find a tour of each cabin in the interior of Guyana if you're interested. Additionally, I received numerous DMs on Instagram after my trip, so I created a Q&A segment where I answer the most frequently asked questions about Guyana. Join me in exploring the beauty and adventure of this remarkable destination.
